Many people do it annually, but in high precision uses, I've heard of them being recalibrated daily. The click type wrenches need to be recalibrated. the scale is in the right place), it will remain that way unless physically damaged. That doesn't go light enough for little thingsĪs I understand it, if a torsion torque wrench is accurate on the day it's manufactured (i.e. When I did feel the need for measured torque on those I used my automotive-style torque wrench with a 1/2' square drive. I just do mine up tight these days, having got enough of a feel for it. This doesn't have enough leverage for crank bolts, cassette lockrings etc. Mine goes up to 8 Nm but I normally leave it on 5 Nm. I don't have any carbon bikes, and haven't calibrated my torque wrenches, but I prefer the 'torque screwdriver' style. The design means you're quite likely to be looking off-axis which will cause an error. I suspect the Topeak review quoted in the comments was either hard to read or something had got misaligned. You really need to be able to get a good look at it to read it accurately.The clicky type won't over-torque doing it up blind Consider a set of bolts, like stem bolts: once the first is engaged and you're using the tool, your other hand is already reaching for the next bolt, and so are your eyes.

This type of design should be OK for occasional use in easy conditions. Note, except where I mention a specific model, this is a discussion of the flexure type of torque wrench, and not any specific example.

Pros and cons torque pro dashcommand